Frostbites 凍傷

“The days of this hunting-based community are numbered, with hunters dwindling as the ice grows ever thinner and recedes. What’s more, the sled dogs are being supplanted by snowmobiles and other vehicles. Ten years ago, there were 30,000 dogs. Now there are only about 12,000. Young Greenlanders have no ambition to become hunters, although there remain a few who choose this path. But it’s brutal life. At -49 °C with wind chill, the cold in the sea ice sinks its teeth into everything — except the dogs. They never seem to feel the cold. But one must be extremely careful. Frostbite will set in quickly if your face left bare. You have to look away from the wind, keep your face covered. In the strongest winds, it can be hard to catch your breath.

On one expedition my fingers and toes got so cold that my right thumb pale white, frozen within ten mininuts and numb…”

冰層愈來愈薄，在格陵蘭從事冰上狩獵的人數，變得愈來愈少。拉雪橇的犬隻，在10年前有30,000隻，現在只剩下12,000隻，被雪上摩托車和其他交通工具所取代。

年輕人愈來愈不愛從事狩獵的工作。狩獵在戶外必須忍受低至負49 °C的超低氣溫及冷風，必須小心包好臉部，免得凍傷。而面對強風，也往往會讓人喘不過氣來。

有一次跟著獵人外出的時候，我(指該書的攝影師)的手指和腳趾覺得冷到骨頭𥚃了，拇指在10分鐘內就迅速凍住而沒有了知覺…….

A story about Takku Takkuk 忠犬

Tallannquaq “fell into a crack in the sea ice…(and) he couldn’t manage to get out of the water…But in no time at all Takku Takkuk sensed his master was in danger and pulled him out of the water back onto ice…Tallannquaq pitched a tent on the sea ice to rekindle his body and dry his clothes. The cold is quick to lay its claim to anything it finds, and the frostbite on Tallannquaq’s right hand was so severe that it later had to be removed. He had to learn to harpoon a whale with his left hand.”*

獵人Tallannquaq掉入海上的冰隙裏面，無法自己爬出來，幸好他的忠犬Takku Takkuk及時察覺，把他拉了出來……Tallannquaq旋即在冰層上架起帳篷來弄乾衣服，但是他右手的凍傷太嚴重了，後來不得不截肢。為了生活，Tallannquaq只能學著怎麼用左手去叉鯨魚呢！

Hjelmer’s bear hunting 獵熊

Hjelmer risked his own life on thin ice and had killed a bear. The photographer took all pictures and thought Hjelmer might want him to get rid of some of them that not everyone should see. 

“But Hjelmer says, ‘I want you to show everyone how my life is. It’s not always easy. It’s often a struggle to stay alive. There are so many who have been killed while trying to provide for their families. Life here is extraordinary. But it can also be perilous.Those who throw stones on us hunters should take a good look at themselves first. We can’t simply run out to store and buy whatever we want. We have to provide for our families. This has been the legacy of the Greenlandic hunter for 4000 years. And this way of life is dying out. Our world is melting.”

Hjelmer冒著生命的危險，在薄冰層上獵殺了一隻北極熊。攝影師問他是否在發表前要刪除一些不該給其他(環保人士的)人看的照片。

Hjelmer的回答是：我希望你能忠實反映我的生活。我拼了命只為了求取生存，並不容易。在這𥚃，很多人為了給家人一些溫飽而丟了性命。生活在這個環境很特別，但也充滿了致命的危機。向我們這些在極地狩獵者丟石頭的人，最好拿鏡子先照照他們自己。我們無法跑去商店就可以輕鬆買到我們所需要的所有東西。我們必須用自己的雙手去狩獵好養活家人，這個傳統在格陵蘭已經有4000年的歷史了。但這種生存方式已經岌岌可危。我們所仰賴的(極地冰層)世界，正在不斷地融化。

A village only 120 resident left 小漁村的沒落

“…Tiniteqlilaaq. A small village on Sermilik fjord, has been a popular outpost fir hunters over the years. The locals there are proud of their small community, but no one knows what the future holds. There are only 120 residents left. Some of the old hunters have sought out better hunting grounds in other villiages elsewhere in Greenland. Others have hung up their rifles, although they say the call of the hunt never stops. Life in the village goes on. On a typical day, kids play in the snow. The older people meet at community center, where that can take a shower and do their laundry. The village water tank sits just off the only road. People lug their plastic bottles to fill them up with fresh water from the tap. A hunter might pull a seal in row for dinner. An old man clears the snow away in front of a house belonging to Thomasine, an old woman who lives on the outskirts of the village…

Tiniteqlilaaq原來是一個極熱鬧的小漁村，現在只剩下120人。人口不斷流失，有些人改搬到其他地方去尋找新的獵場，有些則雖然口口聲聲說要狩獵一輩子，但其實都已經高掛槍枝，悄悄退休了。

The secrets of the Arctic and so many its phenomenal stories are bewildering, a riddle just beyond our comprehension, and that will remain that way. They’re partly encapsulated in the life of this small village, in the lives of these people who live in constant uncertainty about their future. With them I have ventured to some of the places where the very Earth is melting.”

北極圈神秘的故事很多，也往往令人難以理解。它們存在於這個小漁村的日常之中，也存在於未來前景極度不明的狩獵者的生活之中。我(指攝影師本人)曾跟著他們的腳步在極地到處走動，看到我們所在的地球，正在不斷地融化。

A good hunter in the Arctic 北極圈的好獵手

“…In the Arctic, neither nature accepts you or it doesn’t…what you say out here can come back to haunt you. We are a part of the nature, which is a powerful force. You must be humble towards Mother Nature, as she listens to what you say. You’ll never become a good hunter unless you develop a positive attitude out in nature and clear your mind of bad thoughts.”

在北極，大自然不是接納你，不然就是拒絕你……你在這裡(向大自然)說的每一句話，都會反回來死死糾纒著你。我們是大自然的一部份，那正也是力量的來源。在大自然母親的面前，我們必須謙卑再謙卑，我們說什麼，她都聽得到。只有你清除心𥚃負面的想法，培養樂觀的態度，你才可能變成狩獵的高手。

Our world is melting 融化的世界

“…A thin layer of ice sometimes forms on the sea, and then it snows again and the ice become stronger enough to walk on for two or three days. But then the ice melts from underneath because the ocean currents are so much warmer than they were twenty years ago. The dog-sledding season used to be eight moths just a few years back. Now it’s already down to five…”

首先，在海面上會形成一層薄冰，接下來下個兩三天的雪，冰層變厚，人就開始可以在上面行走。但是，現在的海流比20年前暖和，冰層從下面開始融化。冰層可以跑雪橇的時間，已經從以前每年的8個月，現在只剩下5個月了。

(在北極圈狩獵的人，出門曝露在嚴寒中，或不期然碰上強壯的北極熊，當然都是很危險的。但現在更危險的是，當狩獵告一個段落，在回程的時候，面對提早融解變薄或因此裂開的冰層，就是以前從來都不需要面對的生死博鬥了。)

“The connection between hunters and dogs in the bleakness of the unrelenting North is, in fact, the story of a profound affinity. And as the age of Greenland’s frozen wildness is eclipsed by both climate change and modernity, these hunters and their dogs have become a dying breed. But the remarkable symbiosis between these people and their most trusted companions, and the legacy of uncanny communion, is a story that transcends time.”

在悽冷無情的北極，獵人和他們的雪橇犬的連結，就是最佳拍檔的寫照。格陵蘭凍原野外的生活方式，受到全球暖化和現代化的影響，獵人和他們的雪橇犬們，成為苟延殘喘的族類。但他們之間，共生的絕對信任夥伴關係的神話故事，將永遠繼續傳唱下去。

*：Ragnar Alexlsson, Arctic Heroes, 2020, Kehrer Heidelberg

2023/8/3 Arctic Heroes Damakey

“More than just a dry roof over weary travelers, the shelters along the iconic AT provide a gathering place and a sense of community on America’s most famous footpath. Dotted an average every eight miles along the 2192-mile route, more than 270 backcountry shelters have welcomed hikers on a first-come, first-served basis since the beginning of the trail’s inception eventually completion in 1937.”*

阿帕拉契步道(Appalachian Trail, AT)，全長共2192英里(3592公里)，其中共建了270間避難山屋，平均每8英里(約13公里)就有一間，自從1937年全部完成開始，就以先到先用的原則，供健行者使用。

“The Appalachian Trail Conservancy defines the term shelter, sometimes referred to lean-to, as a ‘three-sided structure without bunks or floors, intended as overnight housing for hikers.’ The term on the AT can also include enclosed structures, unlocked cabins, and the AMC hut system in the Whites. Built, maintained, and preserved with thousands of hours by dedicated trail clubs, ridgerunners, and volunteers, shelters have always been and continue to be an integral part of the trail experience.”*

阿帕拉契步道維護組織(Appalachian Trail Conservancy, ATC)，定義避難山屋(shelter)為：三面有遮蔽，但是沒有床舖也沒有地板，僅供登山健行的人短暫過夜的建築物。

但在今日，阿帕拉契步道的避難山屋(shelter)，現在也包括四面都有遮蔽的建築物、不鎖的小木屋、和大山屋。

避難山屋是由山會、志工及當地人(尤其是阿帕拉契人)共同維護的。住避難山屋，是健行阿帕拉契步道，主要體驗的一部份。

“The early shelters were built from stone or a mix of stone and logs. The original Adirondack-style shelters were built directly on the ground with dirt floors, and almost all had wire-frame cots with canvas covers. Some had internal fireplaces, but most had semicircular fire pits located at the front of structure to provide light and warmth inside…”

早期的避難小屋，是用石塊或用石塊和木椿蓋的。典型的是直接從泥土地直接往上建起來，用線網加上帆布蓋。有些還有壁爐，而大多是在小屋前面半圓形的火坑，可以燒木頭保暖並且提供夜間的照明。

(以前避難小屋大多位於私地，避難小屋有壁爐、火坑，只要是農人會使用)

“Early construction efforts had builders cutting and peeling logs on-site at makeshift lumberyards and then building the shelter in place. In remote locations, materials and equipment would have to be hauled in for miles. Some shelters, …, required to be brought in by helicopter. The United State Forest Service(USFS) wooden-plank design, still common in Virginia and parts of Vermont, became popular because the lighter building materials eased the process of bringing supplies to the shelter site and did not require the specialized knowledge of building techniques used to construct log shelters.”

早期建避難小屋，會就近建臨時的作坊，剝除木椿的樹皮，然後在現地蓋。

在比較偏遠的地方，建材和機具就必須拖運進去。

有些地方，則必須透過直昇機吊掛。

美國林務局用木片蓋屋的設計，一方面材質輕巧，另外一方面工人也不需俱備用木椿蓋屋的特別技能，所以也非常受到歡迎。

“…The biggest concentrations of shelters still in use were built between 1980 and 1999, and fewer than 35 new shelters have been built in the last 29 years.

在阿帕拉契步道上，目前使用中的避難小屋，大多是建於1980到1999年之間的，不到35座是在最近20年內建成的。

At shelters at a glance:

Highest elevation: 6285 feet

Lowest elevation: 290 feet

Smallest shelters(sleep 4)

Largest hut(sleeps 90)

Average number of sleepers: 6 or 8

Shortest distance between shelters: 0.1 miles

Shortest distance between shelters: 32.2 miles

Oldest(non-hut) shekters: built in 1928

Newest shelters: built in 2017 and 2018

阿帕拉契的避難山屋，散佈於海拔88公尺到1915公尺之間。

避難山屋之間，最長的間距約51.8公里(約當是六順山縱走路線的一半)，看來如果要穿越那一段，是不揹帳也是不行的了。

最古老的避難山屋建於1928年，住阿帕拉契步道的山屋，因此就特別有了歷史的情懷。

最新的避難山屋，是2018年蓋的，如是看來，步道的維護是經常性在進行的。

Shelter etiquette:

1. Make room for other hikers.

2. Keep the ground litter-free.

3. Make phone calls and smoke away from the shelter.

4. Don’t cut down trees.

5. Dispose of waste liquid. Walk at least 100 feet away from the shelter and 200 feet from the water resources.

6. If a shelter has a privy, use it. If not dig a ‘cathole’  200 feet from the shelter(six to eight inches deep and three to four inches wide).

7. If you snore, tent.

8. Don’t tag(graffiti) the shelter.

9. Avoid eating in the shelter if at all possible.

10. Use proper bear equipment when provided.

11. Do not leave or burn trash or garbage in the fire pit. Don’t leave extra food is the shelter, in any storage boxes, or hanging from trees.

12. Sweep out the shelter when you arrive and leave.

13. Be considerate of other hikers…be considerate of others who need to get to sleep when the sun sets.

避難山屋守則

雖然阿帕拉契的避難山屋是先到者先用，但是如果是大團體，則默契上是要禮讓小團體優先使用的。

有公廁使用公廁，如果沒有就要挖洞掩埋，而且地點要遠離避難山屋/營地和水源。

會打呼的人，請自備搭帳。

保持避難山屋的清潔，垃圾不可焚燒，都帶下山。

不要留下任何地方食物。

日落後保持安靜，以免打擾他人的睡眠。

“The AT was built and continues to be maintained by ordinary people. Trail volunteers—more than 6,000 people of all ages and backgrounds—are essential to keeping the AT vision alive by building, repairing, restoring and reshaping the trail. Club volunteers and ATC-led or club-led crews perform activities from working in visitor centers to monitoring rare plants.”

阿帕拉契步道的維護，主要是靠由來自各行各業超過6000人的志工。各山會(Club)的志工，或阿帕拉契步道維護組織及山會主導的人員，則負責遊客中心的運作以及罕見珍稀植物的保護。

“…The keepers of the trail take on many names: boundary monitor, caretaker, ‘croo,’ overseer, ranger, ridgerunner, sawyer, section maintainer, shelter adopter, shelter maintainer, trail crew, trail club volunteer, trail maintainer, or trail ambassador. The success and longevity of the AT relies on the shared love and commitment of these dedicate people who work to preserve it. These workers and volunteers are the heart and soul of this beloved footpath.”

阿帕拉契步道能夠維持長期順利的運作，志工的奉獻與投入，居功厥偉。

With an estimated three to four million visitors a year, the impact of hikers can take its toll on the beloved AT. Since 1994, the nonprofit Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics, an ATC partner, has existed Ti educate and promote conservation ethics in the outdoors. The Leave No Trac principles are a set of outdoor ethical guidelines…seven values…

1. Plan ahead and prepare.

2. Travel and camp on durable surfaces.

3. Dispose of waste properly.

4. Leave what you find.

5. Minimize campfire impacts.

6. Respect wildlife.

7. Be considerate of other visitors.

1. 爬山前做好規劃和準備。

2. 路徑和營地選擇堅固的地表。

3. 好好處理穢物和垃圾。

4. 不要帶走任何大自然的東西。

5. 降低營火對環境的影響。

6. 尊重野外的生命。

7. 時時考慮到其他山友的感受。

Leave No Trace(無痕山林)，為了你我的皆大歡喜，而且要讓大自然可以永續經營充滿活力，不只是要把所有的垃圾帶下山而已。

*：Sarah Jones Decker, Appalachian  Trail, 2020, Rizzoli International Publications, Inc.

2023/8/1 Appalachian Trail Damajey

『阿嬤口中的「三文魚罐」，其實是沿用日治時代的名詞，古早日本生產的罐頭是用鮭魚肉(Salmon)做的，所以稱為「三文魚罐頭」。日本戰敗撤退後，因為台灣沒有出產鮭魚，便以鯖魚取代製造罐頭，但老一輩人還是習慣用「三文魚罐」的稱呼。…..』*

記得很小很小的時候，「三文魚」罐頭也不是平常就吃得到的，往往是家𥚃臨時有訪客拿來加菜，或者像作者說的，在颱風天拿來抵用的主菜。「三文魚」(其實是鯖魚)加上新鮮的葱段，稍微烹煮一下，就是可以端上桌的好菜了。

長大離鄉，之後在大城市落腳，就沒有什麼印象有再吃過「三文魚」罐頭。但是每每聞到淡淡的魚腥味，或者颳起了颱風，「三文魚」的好味道，就會不經意地襲上心頭。

『家是有炊煙、有溫熱的食物，等待我們歸來的地方，透過食物就能感受愛與關懷，即便隔著遙遠的時空，記憶中的味道還是會刻印在心中，永誌不忘。』*

作者說，這是鄉愁的滋味。

鄉下的老家，隨著老父、大哥、大嫂的永遠外出，已經從鄉愁的馬奇諾防線上全面失守。「三文魚」的滋味，從一種遊子的盼望，變成了「茄汁鯖魚」的現實了。

以前，老家前面真的有一條小河，一條颱風天不讓我渡過去上學的小河。自從河岸的竹林砍掉蓋了堤壩，河上加跨了水泥橋，溪裏的水就從我的記憶中悄悄地消退乾涸了。

然而，「三文魚」好吃的味道，總在我心思洶湧的時候，悄悄漫漲過鄉愁的堤岸。

它也是苗栗的老母親，佈滿皺紋的手，撫慰我童年的胃腸，粗糙的溫柔。

*：凌煙，文學廚房的人生百味，2022， 橙舍文化有限公司

2023/7/31 三文魚罐 Damakey

“‘Grief and Grievance: Art and Mourning in America’ is an intergenerational exhibition that bring together thirty-seven artists working in a variety of medium to consider the intertwined phenomena of black grief and white grievance and they structure and define contemporary American social and political life. In the exhibition, mourning can be seen as a politics: refusing a singular melancholy in favor of multifaceted forms of critiques, resistance, survival, and care, the exhibition understands mourning as a practice embedded in living, and vice versa — and the radically difficult effects of this state when it comes to the ways in which race, class, and gender identities intersect…”

‘Grief and Grievance: Art and Mourning in America’ 是一個跨世代的展覽，聚集了37位藝術家用各種不同的媒材做成的作品，充分考量到黑人的悲哀和白人的怨懟交相影響的現象以及當今美國社會的結構和政治現實。在展場中，哀傷的表現充分展現政治智慧，不是一味地表現悲傷的程度，而是從多個角度來展現哀傷的日常，譬如批評、抗爭、生存、關愛等等。同樣的努力，也在種族、階級、性別認同等等因素的交互影響之下，展現出極為難表現出來的效果。

台灣有藍綠之爭，而美國有黑白之爭。

美國的黑人，常感到受白人的壓迫和殺害，而感到悲哀(Grief)。

美國抱持著白種人至上想法的白人，因為再也無法位於絕對主宰的地位，而對黑人充滿了怨懟(Grievance)。

直至今日，台灣的藍綠之爭，很幸運地，只會在媒體上或於選舉之時，形成口水戰。但是，在美國的黑白之爭，則除了口水戰，還會產生人命關天的生死問題。

台灣的藍綠之爭淹不死人，而美國的黑白之爭則似乎是永遠無解的悲哀(Grief)和怨懟(Grievance)之間擺盪的惡性循環。

2016年的美國總統大選，正當川普和希拉蕊兩個陣營最後決戰的時候，川普陣營特意宣布要在賓州的Gettysburg造勢。

“…The rally was pitched against the backdrop of the historical Gettysburg memorial grounds, where thousands of Union soldiers fell in battle while defeating the army of the Confederacy, and in so doing turned the tide of the war and helped to liberate African Americans from slavery…”

美國南北戰爭中Gettysburg 一役，白人奴役黑人在社會地位居於絕對優勢地位的南方邦聯，敗給思想比較自由派、主張人人生而平等、要解放黑奴的北方聯軍。

川普刻意要在充滿歷史深沈意義的Gettysburg 造勢，就是要激起美國國內的黑白對立。根據調查，川普的鐵粉支持者的樣貌，是共和黨人，而且集中在鄉下地區，把生活不如意歸咎於全球化或外來移民搶走工作者，是對少數民族尤其是黑人充滿怨懟的人。到Gettysburg 造勢，就是要把那些票催出來。

蘇俄利用FB客戶資料分析的結果，協助推送催票的訊息，在勢鈞力敵的選戰中，產生了臨門一腳的效果。

結果大家都知道了，美國人選出了一位不止全世界都感到驚訝，美國人也不滿意的(偏向白人的)總統。

川普充分利用分裂的社會，黑人的悲哀(Grief)和白人的怨懟(Grievance)的矛盾之間，得到了勝選的利益。

在Gettysburg 大戰之後，有部分的區域就作為死難將士長眠之地，林肯總統旋即在1863的11月到現場的紀念儀式中，發表了有名的Gettysburg Address。

“Lincoln laid out in terse and succinct words the principle surrounding the war of secession and the question of slavery. From then on, a narrative of white grievance about the Confederacy has reminded as part of the mythology of the South’s disinheritance. It gave birth to while supremacy and led to the creation of the Ku Klux Klan, which remains a threat in the lives of African Americans today…”

Gettysburg Address的演講之中揭著櫫南北戰爭反奴隸的性質，這樣的敍事，使得聯邦敗退所埋下的怨懟，成為南方神話中反美國傳統的一部份，它催生了3 K黨，直至今日還威脅著美國黑人的生命安全。

在Gettysburg中為解放黑奴而戰死的北方聯軍而言那是悲哀(Grief)，而對戰敗的南方邦聯(的白人)，則是怨懟(Grievance)。

林肯Gettysburg Address有兩大重點：

1. All men are created equal.

2. Theses dead should not died in vain—that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom—and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth.

1. 人生而平等；

2. 建立民有、民治、民享萬壽無疆的國家。

“…With the media’s normalization of white nationalism, recent years have made clear that there is a new urgency to access the role of the artists, through works of art, have played to illuminate the searing contours of American body politic. Included in ‘Grief and Grievance’ are woks encompassing video, painting, sculpture, installation, photography, sound, and choreography all made, with a handful of key exceptions, during the past decade…”

當下媒體對白人國家主義，視之為正常的情形之下，在‘Grief and Grievance’ 的策展中，以各種形式展現美國深沈傷感(Mourning in America)的藝術品，就是藝術家對媒體姑息白人至上主義的做法，最急切需要的反應和抗議。

“…In Old French, the verb grever is to burden, a transitive verb. One burdens another. One is burdened by something or someone. One carries a load of some kind. The English derivation is to grieve, suggestion that loss is one of the most basic burdens human bear. Grief is thus the burden of loss, a heavy load one carries on the body and, so, a labor; grief is the labor of carrying and the weight(gravis) that is carried, one that is more or less bearable…To grieve is also to launch a petition, a complaint, a grievance, to pursue and administrative or legal pathway for recognition and repair for the injury by which on is aggrieved…

在古法文中，grever是及物動詞，是「造成負擔」的意思，「造成別人的負擔」或「𠄘受他人加諸的負擔」。演變到英文，就是grieve 這個字，則有「𠄘受損失」的意思。而grief 就是「𠄘受損失的負擔」。to grieve (𠄘受損失)也代表提起訴願、抱怨、表達怨懟、尋求行政或法律管道的救濟以彌補所承受的損失等等的意思。

Grevance in French and grievance in English document the turning of the burden of loss into an appeal; the burden comes to assume a voice, an appeal for intervention, adjudication, judgment, perhaps no more than amelioration but perhaps no less than emancipation…”

在法文中的grevance，在英文中相對就是grievance，意思是把損失的負擔轉化為呼籲，呼籲介入、仲裁、審判，最好能獲得合理解決，但是至少要得到改善。

“…white grievance takes aim at the petition for racial justice, which is figured as a legally potent mode of inflicting harm on white people or, rather, their whiteness. We should say that white people ‘lose’ their supremacy, and so have something socially to grieve…”

白人的grievance(怨懟)，主要訴求種族的正義，因為他們覺得白人的優越地位受到減損。

“Black grief,…, This life, living now, could at any moment, and for no apparent reason, be expunged…”

黑人的grief(悲哀)，則主要是感受到，隨時都有可能會被(白人)隨意殺害的恐懼。

“…The struggle against racial justice harms those for whom whiteness is capital and power, including lethal legal power: the police, the prison, the death penalty. Yet the unbearability of the burden of loss emerges in appeal to justice, one voice becomes linked to another, and the petition for justice strikes at the powers assembled under the banner of white supremacy. No justice can return the dead, but only justice can mark and mourn their loss….

對種族司法不公的抗爭會對某些人造成負面影響，諸如，對黑人犯下重罪的白人，及對黑人致命不公的公權力，譬如警察、監獄、死刑的判決等等相關的人。但是黑人面對無法𠄘受到的傷害的訴願，接二連三地出現，碰到的是聚集在白人至上大纛之下的力量。司法無令死者回生，但是司法可以記錄並哀悼受害者𠄘受的傷亡的損害。

“…It is not only that losses must be mourned, must be given the dignity of open mourning, but that open mourning must assert the value of life, of collective existence outside the terms of law and the frame, moving toward a new visual field and new ideal of justice.”

對於造成的傷亡的損害，不只要舉行悼念，儀式必須公開而且有尊嚴，也必須強調每一個人的存在的基本價值，超過法律規定的最低的規範和固定的框架，𠄘認集體共同存在的意義，邁向未來新的政治視野和運作完美的司法體系。

美國族群之間撕裂的鴻溝，尤其是白人和黑人之間，造成社會和政治上難解的問題。我們在台灣，要引為殷鑑，不要重蹈美國的覆轍才好。

*：Okwui Enwezor, Grief and Grievance, art and mourning in America, 2020, New Museum

2023/7/31 Grief and Grievance, art and mourning in America Damakey

《王子雜誌》是我擁有的第一本課外「書」，記得是小學的時候，小姊姊從台北特地買來送我的禮物。寛大、顏色鮮豔的封面，書頁握起來厚厚實實的手感，興奮之情至今猶然歴歷在目。內容已經不記得了，但是擁有一本「書」的初體驗，卻一直深深銘刻在心𥚃頭。

《看得見的台灣史，時間篇》這本國立台灣歷史博物館策展的圖文書冊，我赫然看到了對《王子雜誌》的介紹。*

若說是溫習了兒時閱讀的童趣，不如說是把那一段失落的記憶，重新敷補了過來。

《王子雜誌》的創辦人蔡焜霖，1930年生，台灣台中清水人，幼時讀至清水公學校，嫻熟日文。後來只因為在高中時期參加了「左傾讀書會」，於1950年被捕入獄，直至從綠島監獄出獄之時，青春一去已經十年，是白色恐怖的受害者。(維基百科)

創辦雜誌，是在蔡焜霖出獄6年之後。

話說國民政府為了箝制言論，其中針對漫畫，實施了〈編印連環圖書輔導辦法〉，漫畫必須事先審查，刊印漫畫變得曠日費時，當時蔡焜霖就任編輯的漫畫出版社(文昌出版社)因此無以為繼，不得不被迫停業。

失業的蔡焜霖，想到了辦法繞過事先審查的規定，『……在1966年創辦了《王子》半月刊雜誌。為了規避《編印連環圖書輔導辦法》的規定，《王子》半月刊刻意將內容切分為百分之八十的文字內容、百分之二十的漫畫，如此就不用事先送審。……』*

《王子雜誌》的創刊背景，就是台灣白色恐怖和戒嚴的時期。

辦雜誌並不好賺。

但當蔡焜霖聽到紅葉少棒隊(1968年成立)需要經費支助的時候，就熱血到處籌款，財務的壓力，使得蔡焜霖在1969年不得不把《王子雜誌》轉手他人。

而紅葉少棒隊，也是台灣五年級生共同的記憶。

《王子雜誌》在1969年轉手之後，還一直出版到1983年10月。從時間上推算，我拿到的那本《王子雜誌》應該是1969年之後出版的，不在創辦人蔡焜霖的任內。

小時候看漫畫書是禁忌，不是政府禁，而是家𥚃禁。原來，《王子雜誌》的內容80%是文字，看起來比較像書、比較正經，難怪小姊姊會買給我了。

我從識字開始，每天的樂趣，就是讀兩份報紙的副刊，大哥訂的「中國時報」和隔壁叔叔家的「聯合報」。一字一句的讀，碰到不認識的字就查字典，比較經常出現的部首，熟到直接翻到字典的那個部首的第一頁，譬如179頁、257頁就是水或木之類的(現在不太記得了)，如果有查字典比賽，那會很有幫助呢！

因此，在小學高年級拿到《王子雜誌》，對於幾年來持續每天看完當時兩大報副刊上的每一篇文學作品而顯得早熟的我而言，內容相對是淺顯的。或許，𥚃面夾雜著家𥚃禁忌的漫畫，能偷偷彌補一些我小小時候的失落。

2021年，蔡焜霖參觀了國立台灣歷史博物館的修護室，看到了創刊號，有感而發。創刊號封面上面的幼童，是「黑橋牌香腸」老闆的一對兒女，是攝影大師柯錫杰的作品。哇！都是大品牌啊！**

『台史博同仁2022年帶著《王子》創刋號等漫畫文物拜訪蔡焜霖。……看到漫畫〈小飛龍〉時，他回想起漫畫家陳文富，還提到創刋號封面照片的孩子就是陳文富的姪子。』*

如此看來，以臨摹手塚治虫原子小金剛漫畫起家的陳文富，應該就是「黑橋牌香腸」老闆陳文輝的兄弟了！

可惜我對陳文富在《王子雜誌》上的〈小飛龍〉漫畫沒有什麼印象，或許是在我擁有的那一期已經沒有了，或許是我忘記了。

倒是記得諸葛四郎，那個忍者，查了一下資料，那應該刊印在實施〈編印連環圖書輔導辦法〉之前，可能是在其他漫畫書裏。由此看來，除了中規中矩的報紙副刊之外，我小時候應該也有偷看過其他的漫畫書。

現在想起來，記憶這種東西，還真是不可靠。

青澀的記憶，現在反蒭咀嚼起來，有回甘的感覺，人生還真是奇妙啊！

或許，那是不確定或遺忘的味道。

鄭板橋寫「難得糊塗」，而感到幸福。其實，只要活得夠久，記憶就會讓我們對過去感到糊塗。或許，這也是回憶會讓我感到幸福的原因之一吧！

要幸福，不妨多多糊塗一下。凡事較真，心會很累。是吧！

*：陳怡宏 主編，《看得見的台灣史，時間篇》，2023年1月，國立台灣歷史博物館

**：張榮祥，〈在台史博遇見王子雜誌創刊號 蔡焜霖感動想哭〉，2021/4/8 ,中央社

2023/7/31 王子雜誌 Damakey

“…In a major strategic miscalculation, Washington admitted Beijing to the World Trade Organization(WTO) in 2001, bizarrely confident that compliant China would somehow join the global economy without changing the balance of power. ‘Across the ideological spectrum, we in the US foreign policy community,’ two former members of the Obama administration later wrote, ‘shared the underlying belief that US power and hegemony could readily mold China to the United States’ liking….All sides of the policy debate erred.’ A bit more bluntly, formal national security advisor H.R. McMaster concluded that Washington had empowered ‘a nation whose leaders were determined not only to displace the United States in Asia, but also to promote a rival economic and governance model globally.’ Over the span of fifteen years, Beijing’s exports to the US grew nearly fivefold to $462 billion, and its foreign currency reserves surged from just $200 billion to an unprecedented $4 trillion by 2014…”

美國官員事後評估，認為讓中國在2001年加入WTO，是美國在策略上所犯的的一大失誤。中國在短短15年之內，外匯存底從2000億美金膨脹到了4兆美金。

(中國因此可以大肆擴張軍備，在世界各地取得港口並開始建一些海軍基地，並實施「一帶一路」的各項投資，在歐亞大陸之間建天然氣管線、鐵路，儼然成為新堀起的區域性強權，意圖與美國在世界秩序中一較長短)

“…In late 2019, the New York Times reported that ‘in 18 of the last 18 Pentagon war game involving China in the Taiwan Strait, the US lost,’ Rather than ramp up its defense of those straits, where more US aircraft carriers would simply mean bigger targets, in 2020 Washington encouraged Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Co., maker of 85 percent the world’s most advanced computer chips, to build a $12 billion factory in Arizona. Those outcomes may explain how Beijing’s growing strength in the South China Sea could become the first step in Washington’s retreat from the Pacific littoral. As China pushes its maritime frontier farther into Pacific, engulfing and threatening Taiwan, Washington may well be faced a difficult choice—to either abandon an old ally, or fight a war it might lose.”

美國國防部在18種假定，和中國對戰的台海戰役兵棋推演之中，結果美國都是輸家。美國為了降低國家安全的風險，因此要求代工高階晶片的台積電到美國，花120億美金設立新的工廠。

“Even if China were to become the preeminent world power around 2030, the accelerating of climate change will likely curtailed its hegemony within two to three decades…by 2050, rising seas will inundate several major Chinese coastal cities, particularly the county’s commercial hub at Shanghai. As these problems gain intensity after mid century, Beijing will likely be forced to retreat from its projection of global power to address urgent domestic concerns.”

縱使中國在2030年能躋身為世界的強權，但是隨著全球暖化以致氣候變化加劇的到來，中國將會被迫把資源及注意力放回到國內，解決沿海城市被海水淹沒而必須大量遷居的問題。

“…increasing temperatures will devastate the North China Plain, a prime agricultural region between Beijing and Shanghai currently inhabited by four hundred million people, potentially making it the most lethal place on the planet…when the combination of heat and humidity reaches a ‘wet bulb temperature’(WBT) of 31 °C，and perhaps five lethal periods of 35°C WBT(where a combination of heat and high humidity prevents the evaporation of sweat that cools human body). After just six hours under the later condition, a healthy person at rest will die…”

全球暖化對中國氣候潮濕的華北地區居民威脅很大。一旦保持在「溼球溫度」(wet bulb temperature, WBT)35 °C以上(約當46°C+相對溼度50%以上)，人將無法排汗，縱使是很健康的人，在這種條件下6個小時，將會導致死亡。

“…The Black Death persisted for just four years…The Napoleonic Wars lasted 20 years and World War II six years. Instead of ending in 2050 or even 2100, climate change will…continue and likely escalate for at least two more centuries before stabilizing with the formation of a very new kind of climate…That changed climate will bring such cascading consequences as aridification, drought, fire, flood, rising seas, and weather extremes on a previous inconceivable scale—causing suffering for human societies worldwide and incalculable disruption to existing world order.”

不管是黑死病、拿破崙戰爭、第二次世界大戰(或最近的Covid-19), 都在短暫的幾年內，頂多20年，就結束了，但是全球暖化造成的氣候變遷的影響，不會那麼早就離我們而去。乾旱、燥熱、野火、洪水、海水淹沒等等天災(或人禍？)，在接下來的兩個世紀內，將可能以令人不可思議的規模，影響到人類生命和財產的安全。

以宏觀的角度來看，全球暖化造成的氣候變遷，將牽動「人類世」政治、經濟和軍事秩序的長期發展。

*：Alfred W. McCoy, To Govern the Globe, World Orders & Catastrophic Change, 2021, Haymarket Books

2023/7/30 To Govern the Globe, World Orders & Catastrophic Change Damakey

“…Ear wax, also called cerumen, is an important protective substance produced by glands in the skin of the ear canal along with skin cells that are shed daily, just like skin cells everywhere in the body. Cerumen exists the ear canal on its own during showering, swimming, and normal everyday activities and carries with it other matter that may have entered the canal. Cerumen’s main functions are to protect the delicate skin of the ear canal from damage by moisture and to fight outer ear infections such as swimmer’s ear.”

耳屎，也稱為耳垢，是耳道皮層上的腺體分泌來保護耳道的物質，加上耳道上新陳代謝後掉落的皮層死亡細胞。

耳垢主要的功能是保持耳道乾爽，並保護耳道皮層不被感染。

“The ear canal is about 1 inch long(24mm). The outer one-third of the canal is made up of cartilage, whereas the inner two-thirds is made of bone. The ear canal is lined with skin, much like the skin that covers the rest of the body, but there are some important differences.

The external ear has a unique self-cleaning mechanism. Like all skin of the body, outer layers of skin cells are lost every day. In the ear, these cells migrate outwards(from eardrum to ear canal opening) carrying debris with them. They become part of cerumen(ear wax) and extrude on their way from the ear opening. The wax is key to protecting the ear canal skins.

Cerumen glands are similar to both mammary glands and sweat glands. The cerumen itself had several functions. It helps prevent outer ear infection because it:

1. Protect the skin from water…

2. Is slightly acidic, making bacteria growth difficult, and

3. Contains antimicrobial protein that attack bacteria.

Together these factors contribute to an antibacterial and antifungal effect cerumen.”

外耳有自動清潔的機制。

耳道表面有一層皮層細胞，每天新陳代謝死亡剝落下來的皮層細胞，就會往耳朵外面的方向挪動。

耳垢分泌腺和乳腺及汗腺類似，它的分泌物和死亡剝落的耳內皮層細胞，共同構成了耳垢，用以下幾種機制保護外耳：

1. 耳垢防水。

2. 耳垢俱微酸性，可抑制細菌的繁殖。

3. 耳垢內含有抗菌的蛋白質。

因此，耳垢有抵抗細菌和真菌的功能。

(耳垢會自然往外移動，可以防止耳道阻塞，基本上不需要去挖它。挖耳垢，反而可能會把耳垢往內堆，而且不小心如果刮傷耳道，則容易導致感染。至於如果有小蟲子跑進去或感覺塞往了，最好找耳鼻喉科去處理。)

Age-related hearing loss.

年老的重聽。

“Sensorineural hearing loss that occurs in older adults is called presbycusis…The degree and age of onset of presbycusis tend to be hereditary, and men are disproportionately affected. Age-related hearing loss has a great impact on the quality of life of tens of millions of older people and is closely associated with all forms of dementia.”

年老時重聽程度和遺傳有關，在比例上，發生在男性身上比女性多。重聽和失智症相關(但非因果關係)。

“Aging changes the cochlea microscopically in four known ways: loss of hair cells and their supporting cells; loss of auditory nerve cells(that carry signals to the brain); degeneration of the stria vascularis(part of the cochlea that maintains chemical and bioelectric balance); and thickening of the basilar membrane(which normally vibrates freely). One of the rare causes of presbycusis is mutation of a mitochondrial gene…”

年老的重聽。是耳蝸的老化導致，有四種原因：

1. 毛細胞或相關細胞功能喪失。

2. 聽覺神經細胞功能喪失。

3. 耳蝸血管紋退化。

4. 基底膜變厚無法靈活震動。

至於因為粒線體基因的突變，這種年老的重聽則很罕見。

“At the time of writing, there is no cure for presbycusis or any type of nerve deafness.”

截至目前為止，老化導致的重聽(和神經性的耳聾一樣)，都沒有任何有效的治療方法。

Noise-Induced Hearing Loss

噪音引起的聽力喪失。

“Exposure to loud noise is the second leading cause of hearing loss. Noise-Induced Hearing Loss(NIHL) can occur at any age…

The louder the noise and the longer the exposure, the more damage it causes to the hair cells of inner ear…

Current music player…Earbuds are closer to the eardrum than head phones and can cause more damage. As a general rule, music played through earbuds or headphones should not be audible to anyone else(keep the volume down) and should not played for more than two hours at a time(keep the duration down as well). Another general rule: if your ears ring after exposure, you have already caused some damage.”

曝露在更大的噪音之中、曝露在噪音的時間愈久，對耳朵毛細胞的傷害愈大。

用耳機聽音樂的時候，聲音要愈小愈好，持續的時間要愈短愈好。如果在用耳機聽音樂的時候，旁邊的人也聽得到，那就明顯太大聲了。另外如果在聽完，耳朶會嗡嗡作響，那代表已經對耳朵造成傷害了，耳機音量太大了。

Tinnitus, ringing in the ears.

耳鳴。

“Tinnitus is the sense of hearing something when there is no related external sound. Nonetheless, tinnitus is real; there are well-known causes for tinnitus and it can be measured. Tinnitus is not a disease but a symptom of physiology.”

耳鳴本身並不是疾病，而可能是身體某些不正常所顯示的症狀。

“…It seems that the actual loudness of their tinnitus does not determine whether people feel that it is ruining their lives. The amount of distress caused by tinnitus is instead related to anxiety and depression. In other words, anxiety and depression do not cause tinnitus but make it seem worse. A tinnitus cycle can develop where anxiety, depression, and loss of sleep make tinnitus more debilitating and the worsening tinnitus makes the anxiety and depression more severe.”

耳鳴音量的絕對大小，對個人生活影響的大小，並沒有必然的關係。耳鳴所造成的焦慮和憂鬱，才是患者所感受到的壓力。換句話說，耳鳴不必然造成焦慮和憂鬱，但容易有焦慮和憂鬱傾向的人，會更感到耳鳴的嚴重性。耳鳴、焦慮和憂鬱、失眠等三者，會形成一個交互影響的惡性循環。

“The realistic goal of treatment of tinnitus of chronic subjective tinnitus is management rather than cure. That is, the hope is to reduce the severity and allow the patient to understand and feel control of his or her tinnitus rather than to feel oppressed and controlled by it…”

面對耳鳴，最合理的目標不是根除它，而是要去管理它；理解它，接受它，跟它和平相處。避免因為耳鳴而引發心𥚃不必要的焦慮和憂鬱。

“Caffeine, Alcohol, and smoking make tinnitus worse…”

耳鳴的人要避免喝有咖啡因(咖啡、茶、可樂等等)的飲料、不要喝酒，不要抽煙。

“Sleep is important for your overall health. If you have a thick neck, snore loudly, or weigh more than you should, you may need to shed some pounds…”

有好的睡眠品質和維持適當的體重，也很重要。

Sound Therapy.

耳鳴的聲音療法。

“Sound therapy uses external sources of sound to reduce the severity of tinnitus…

Following are some methods of sound therapy used to promote sleep.

1. Everyday background sounds such as music, fans, air conditioners, humidifiers, air filters(or political speeches).

2. Generic sound generator can play recordings of birdsong, trains, a babbling brook, or the ocean through headphones or pillow speakers.

3. Customized sound generation(also called wearable maskers) look like hearing aids…

(不寫了，自行參閱)

*：Thomas J. Balkan & Kevin D. Brown, The Ear Book, a complete guide to ear disorder and health, 2017, John Hopkins University Press

2023/7/30 The Ear Book, a complete guide to ear disorder and health Damakey

“We are damaging our own fundamental life-support systems. Burning fossil fuels causes climate change that floods coastal cities. Excessive chemical fertilizers on fields add little to crop yields but instead kill fish in our rivers and ocean. One region’s dam to capture water leaves millions downstream with empty taps. Cutting forests for timber lead to droughts hundreds of miles away. Plowing soils creates deserts. And hunters and fishers cause extinction that destabilize entire ecosystems…”

我們一直在破壞我們自己賴以生存的生態環境：用石化燃料，使得全球暖化，濱海城市變得容易淹水；用了太多的化學肥料，污染了水質，令其中的魚類無法生存；在上游築壩，造成下游無水可用；濫伐森林取用木材，導致氣候容易乾旱；深耕土壤，促進沙漠化；過度漁獵，滅絕了物種，破壞了生態的平衡。

And enlarge the scale of dead zone by “huge amounts of pollution, especially nitrogen runoff from fertilized fields and sewage from cities. The flush of nitrogen, added by phosphates, stimulates the growth of booms of algae and cyanobacteria(known as blue-green algae) that can cover large areas. They can be toxic. And even is not, as the algae dies, the rotting absorbs so much oxygen that there is none left in the water. Very little can live without oxygen. The outcome is dead zones—areas of oceans where everything had died.”

化學肥料中的氮，以及城市廢水中的磷化物，會造成水的優氧化，一方面可能有毒的藍綠藻會過度增生，另外一方面當藍綠藻腐敗死亡的時候，呼吸作用會耗去水中珍貴的氧。無氧的水中，很少生物能夠生存，就會變成了一潭的死水。

“The rising concentration of carbon dioxide in the air is resulting in more of the gas dissolving in the ocean…changes the chemistry in the oceans. They are on average 26 percent more acid than 200 years ago. This matters because many marine animals need calcium carbonate to make shells and skeleton in the water, and in acid conditions, less of this is available. Corals, clams, sea urchins, and many other species will find it harder to absorb enough calcium carbonate to grow and flourish…”

我們排放到空氣中的二氧化碳，(有大概三分之一)會溶解於水中，造成水質酸化，海水中的鈣質將減少，這會使得水中生物難以吸收到足夠的鈣，無法長成強健的骨骼或包覆在身外的硬殼。

“A growing concern is that more and more methane from rotting plants that has been trapped in the Arctic permafrost is now bubbling up. Methane is a greenhouse gas with even more warming potential than CO2…”

“Melting Siberian permafrost —soil that has been permanently frozen for more than 2 million years—collapses into a rivet valley. The melting of permafrost is releasing huge amount of carbon dioxide and methane, which will accelerate global warming…”

全球暖化時，北極和西伯利亞地區的永凍層的融解，將釋放出更多的二氧化碳及甲烷，會惡性循環地又更加加速了全球的暖化。

“…While the Antarctic is a continent surrounded by ocean, the Arctic is an ocean Siu rounded by land. While the deep ice on Antarctic has helped keep the South Pole region cool, warming in Arctic had so far been much greater, resulting in a dramatic loss of sea ice that is already proving extremely challenging for many species.”

南極是一塊陸地，北極則是一個大冰塊，這也是為什麼在全球暖化的影響之下，北極的冰層會比南極的融化得更快的原因。已經有很多物種的生存，都受到了極大的威脅。

“…The ice algae are the marine equivalent of terrestrial grassland. They are the main food for Antarctic krill—among our planet’s most abundant creature. 

Krill are small, prawn-like crustaceans, no longer than two inches and with an average life of seven years, they spend most of their time in the depths, often in vast swarms that can cover hundreds of square miles. The krill swim to the surface under the cover of night, when they feed on phytoplankton(microalgae) in the open ocean or use their rake-like bristles to scrape algae from the ice.

The total world krill population is estimated at about 780 trillion—weighing more than the total human population. Almost everting in the Southern Ocean depends on krill…”

南冰洋的磷蝦數量非常驚人。

南冰洋的各種生物不是以吃磷蝦為生，不然就是以吃磷蝦為生的生物為生，可見磷蝦在南冰洋地區生態系的重要性。

磷蝦則以浮游生物(微藻類)為生，或用身上的鬃鬚挖冰上的藻類來吃。

(根據研究，全球暖化使得海水溫度上昇，磷蝦的分佈有往南極移動的趨勢。『科學家認為，磷蝦不會就此停止南遷，未來恐持續往南集中，若磷蝦族群越來越集中，許多以磷蝦為主食的動物如鯨魚、企鵝、海豹，就必須要在更小的區域內互相競爭，可能會對南極生態圈有不良的影響。』**)

“A looming threat is the loss of mountain glaciers. Currently, the summer melting of glaciers in many parts of the world provides reliable flows for river. Even without rainfall, the rivers keep flowing. But as the world warms, many glaciers loose more ice each summer than winter snowfall replaces.”

高山冰河的消融，將使得下游河水的水量在夏季無法得到充分的補充。

“…It is taking place in the radiative exclusion zone enforced around the Chernobyl nuclear power station after it brew up in 1986, scattering radiation across the land…

Forest are colonizing the formal atomic city of Pripyat…Forests now cover almost two-third of the exclusion zone. Under the cover of birch, oak, maple, and pine, wildlife is returning big-time…forests laced with isotope of strontium, plutonium, americium, and cesium are extremely healthy-looking lynx, gray wolves, Przewalski’s horses, moose, deer, wild boars, foxes, hares, and even a brown bear or two. Eagle soar in the air looking for prey…”

放射線對動植物基因的影響，可能在以後的子代中才慢慢看得出來，但以現在車諾比核災的禁區內動植物欣欣向榮的現象，就已經可以看出，生態系只要有機會，就可以迅速恢復過來，展現出驚人的靭性。

“Tropical rainforests are distinguished by their constant warmth and near-permanent rains. They have no seasons—no disruptive patterns such as dry-season fires or winter freezing—no part of the year when nature is dormant. So the constant cycles of growth, procreation, death, decomposition, and rebirth are in overdrive all year round. Many believe this is the key to their extraordinary biodiversity—the reason why rainforests are the most complex ecosystems on earth.

Another reason is the extraordinary range of different habitats,…”

至於雨林，它的特色就是長年的高溫多雨。雨林中的生物，總是生生不息，因此能維持最大限度的生物多樣性。而且雨林中有多種不同的棲地，可以讓不同生物適得其所。這是為什麼保育雨林是非常重要的原因。

“…The earth has entered the Anthropocene, a new geological epoch in which humans shape the planet. It is, for good or ill, our planet now. 

The challenge is to make a good Anthropocene. Not a scary dystopian age of disaster, but a joyful Anthropocene where we humans rise to the change of managing our planet, of being good stewards of nature…”

地球的生態，已經被人類弄得殘破不堪了，有學者稱這樣的時期是「人類世」。

這個地球，人類既然已經是主宰，就不要再糟蹋這個星球了，而是要承擔起相關的責任，成就一個更好的「人類世」

那麼，可以怎麼做呢？

“The answers may surprise us. We are already changing. In rich countries, we are slowing losing our addition to ‘stuff.’ These days when people get richer, they often spend money on things that required people and skills…rather than possessions. Nature potentially takes fewer hits…Digital technologies replace a lot of gadgets…In rich countries, we are also discovering how to appreciate products that are well-made and long-lasting, how eating less meat and cycling can make us healthier while reduce our impact on the environment, how green spaces and access to nature can make us more contented…”

人類要降低自己的慾望，那樣對大自然的影響就可以更小。

在富裕的國家裏，大家慢慢要求的不再是數量和物質，而是經久耐用的品質。

數位化的結果，把更多的機件和器具都濃縮到手機、iPad和雲端上面。

現在大家知道不要吃太多肉對身體有好處，(可減少對環境的影響)。

大家也知道生態保育的重要性，多接觸大自然有益身心。

“As this book tells us, from every region of the world there are stories that reveal nature’s resilience and show how restoration is possible…”

在生態保育上的行動，永遠不遲，只要提供動植物足夠的保育空間，動植物自然就會恢復過來，這在全世界的保護區之中，不乏令人振奮的例子。

*：Keith Scholey and Alastair Fothergill, Our Planet, 2019, Ten Speed Press 

**：自由時報網站，全球暖化新鐵證！海水太暖了 磷蝦逐漸移向南極，2019/01/22

2023/7/29 Our Planet Damakey

2023年7月24日，登上了合歡北峰，信步下天巒池的方向沒有多遠的地方，有個叉路往右，經過碧綠溪的源頭和小溪營地，我繼續沿著平緩的草原往北偏東的方向前去，直到緩坡變得較陡了，往前再也沒有明顯的路跡了，地上釘了一個黃色小木牌的禁制標記的位置，然後我停了下來。

在我面前的群山，最遠最高處，是祼岩尖銳的中央尖山。

中央尖山的西北邊，是南湖大山。

中央尖山往我的方向，層層疊曲折延展而來的中央山脈主稜，就是甘藷峰(想像是藏在無名山後面)、無名山(看得見的是無名山和無名山西峰之間的大崩壁)、鈴鳴山，然後是畢祿-羊頭那條稜的北畢祿山、畢祿山(鋸齒連峰藏在後面，因為是往東發展的稜線，從這個西南往東北看的角度，所站的位置不夠高，所以看不到)。

從畢祿山往南偏西(向我)下降的低稜，我想像在山腰之間繫著一條820林道，下接到在我眼前隱沒在台灣冷杉林後面的鞍部下面，應該就是大禹嶺附近的合歡隧道的西口。

中橫(台八線)順著山勢，從那裡往西延伸，之後轉北，基本上就是沿著合歡北峰往北下降經武法奈尾山的整個山體的裙腳而行，也可說是彎彎曲曲腰繞，經過福壽山農場的山下，然後到梨山地區。

我記得其中有一處的崩壁，經常造成中橫無法通行，修了半天也只是勉強讓車子可以通行而己，足見合歡山北峰北坡的邊緣，是脆弱的。這也可以從合歡北峰到合歡西峰之間的稜線北側，觀察到它的地質。

而對在地球上相對年輕的中央山脈而言，完全不缺這種脆弱。

這段中橫公路和畢祿山東西向的稜線間的大山谷之中，流的就是碧綠溪。

碧綠溪大略是由南往北流，然後轉西，在福壽山農場東南方向的山下快到梨山的地方，匯入由合歡山地區西側匯流下來的合歡溪。

合歡溪往北偏東流，在梨山清泉橋上游一點點的地方匯入南湖溪。

南湖溪往西南方向流，在龜山(松茂部落下的溪谷北邊一點的位置)，匯入大甲溪。

我就想，如果我是一滴落在那裡的雨水，我可能被蒸散成中央山脈午後回收利用的雷陣雨，我可能被玉山箭竹、台灣冷杉或其他植被吸收，我可能潛伏在土壤裏等待真菌來收集，我可能成為山友遊客住民解渴的飲水，我可能灌溉了高麗菜園、果園和農田，我可能變成髒骯的工業廢水，而我也有可能幸運地順流而下，經過碧綠溪、合歡溪、南湖溪、大甲溪，與從合歡山其他地區、南湖大山地區、雪山山脈地區來的的兄弟姊妹們快樂團聚，最後在台中梧棲港北側的高美溼地附近，回到台灣海峽母親溫暖的懷抱𥚃。

我往回看，草原坡的最高處就是合歡北峰，然後再南一點點的地方，就是合歡北峰附近的地標——微波轉播站的大型立板。

我突然想起來，那片草原坡，就是我在同一個月的7月2日，站在北邊的中央尖山上面，往南偏西，遠遠看到的那一抹黃綠。

從中央尖山往南偏西看的中央山脈主稜，就是甘藷峰、無名斷崖、無名山、鈴鳴山、畢祿山，以及鋸齒連峰。而在畢祿山和鋸齒連峰這條稜的後面更遠處，就是合歡北峰北側的大草原、合歡北峰，往南一點是合歡主峰，再往南那個明顯凸起的黃綠色大山就合歡東峰。

如果把視線由合歡東峰往東跳移，那個像中央尖山一樣崢嶸岩面的但山勢稍斜的大尖山，就是奇萊北峰，續往東發展的是奇萊東稜，可以看到太魯閣大山、立霧主山和帕托魯山。

回到我站的合歡北峰北坡下的草原，往東看奇萊北峰和屏風山當然很明顯，但更遠的奇萊東稜，由於稜線是與視線平行的東西向，加上當時有雲霧停佇，太魯閣大山、立霧主山和帕托魯山就分不清楚了。倒是循線指向立霧溪出海口北側的遙遠處，那就是清水大山了。

我就想，我站在群山之中，去尋找他們名字的方向，或許只不過是因緣於某一種意外。或許我只是天上的一顆小小的星星，在幾萬年之後，幻化為一縷光線，迫降在美麗的地球上面，如是而已。

哪一天我回到了宇宙，對於當下偶遇的一切，當會從幾萬光年之外，眨著潮溼的眼，孤獨地想念。

中央山脈，從南湖大山到合歡東峰之間拉一條略為東北西南走向的軸線，當中沿著這條軸線附近構成中央山脈主稜主要的百岳名山就有：南湖南峰、巴巴山、中央尖山、甘藷峰、無明山、鈴鳴山、畢祿山、合歡北峰、合歡主峰。

而又或許，站在合歡北峰北坡的前緣，我就已經是回到了自己心中的宇宙了，等著捕捉幾萬年之前，從幾萬年光年之外，剎那間閃過來的思念。

年輕時的夢是做The Catcher in the Rye。當下的願想是當The Catcher in the Light。

不可承受的Light。

2023/7/28 在群山中的想念 Damakey

“The intensity, clarity and color temperature of light strongly influences the atmosphere of a shot. The factors that affect the quality of light are the time of day, the season and the weather. As with the direction of light there is, in theory no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ light, but most landscape photographers would agree that the light at beginning and end of the day is especially flattering.”*

光線的品質，對於風景攝影(landscape photography)氣氛的塑造，是很重要的。

在每天的晨昏，日出和日落時分，是很多從事風景攝影者最喜愛的時段。

晨昏的陽光，光線從地平面或海平面平射過來，相對於白天，必須穿過更厚的大氣層(想像大氣層是環繞著地球表面，薄薄的一層空氣)。波長較短的藍、紫色光比較無法穿越通過，使得我們可以看到的光線，是比較偏暖色系、波長較長、穿透力較強的紅、橙色光。

而這其中，傍晚的紅橙光，由於空氣中浮動更多反射的微粒，會形成更暖的色調；而相對在早上的紅橙光，空氣比較清新，感覺就是比較乾淨的冷色暖(個人覺得，在高海拔的山上看日出，這種感覺會更加強烈)。

而不管怎樣，基本上由於晨昏光線的品質都很柔和，要拍出充滿溫暖、希望的照片，應該都不難。

“There is a period of twilight each morning and evening when the longer red wavelengths of light pass straight into space, while the shorter blue wavelengths are scattered through the atmosphere, resulting in cool blue tones and saturated color. These times of day are usually referred to as the ‘blue hour’(though in reality they are generally shorter than an hour) and can be very atmospheric times to shoot cityscape, urban scenes or landscapes that feature water…”*

在日出之前或日落之後，有一小段時間，長波長的紅橙光減少了，天空會充滿散射的藍光，在那個時候拍攝城市或鄉村的風景，或者臨水的風景，都會很有氣氛的。

講到散色的藍光，其實那就是在放晴的大白天，藍天形成的原因。

藍天白雲的風景，隨便拍隨便好看，為什麼呢？

主要原因還是因為充足的光線，光圈不用太大，曝光的時間不用太長(快門速度可以快一點)，照片有更大的景深，不容易模糊，不管遠近都可以照得更清楚，畫質會顯得更犀利。

“Depth of field is the zone of acceptable sharpness within an image. Although both focal length and camera-to-subject distance also help determine depth of field, aperture size is its overriding control. By adjusting the aperture you not only alter the amount of light passing through the lens, but you also determine the level of front-to-back sharpness…”

小光圈可以有更長的景深，這個時候照片的焦點要放在哪裡就相形重要了。

“Shorter focal lengths appear to display a greater depth of field than longer lenses. As a result, wide-angle lenses are popular not only for their ability to capture larger vistas, but also for the way they can help ensure front-to-back sharpness.”

廣角鏡也可以用來增加景深。

“When image-forming light passes through the aperture, the light striking the edges of the diaphragm blades scatters, or ‘diffract’, which softens image quality…”

光線通過光圈的狹窄縫隙會產生繞射的現象，以致影響到成像的品質，一般最好避免太小的光圈。但是，在照太陽的時候，如果要產生星芒的效果，那得得用極小的光圈，譬如f/22。

“…The concept of balance is central to composition. Perhaps the most fundamental decision we make when composing a photograph is how we balance the different elements in a scene to achieve a harmonious composition, or how we do the opposite to create discord…”

照片的構圖很重要。最基本的就是追求一種相片看起來構圖是和諧的平衡感。

“The Golden Ratio works like this: if you divide a line into two parts so that the proportional relationship between the smaller part and the longer part is the same as the proportional relationship between the longer part and the whole length, then you have divided the line according to the Golden Ratio. Expressed mathematically, this proportion is approximately 1:1.618…”

傳統的構圖，有所謂黃金分割的理論：

把一條線分割成兩段，長邊的長度A和短邊的長度為B，那麼滿足A/B =(A+B)/A的分割法，就是黃金分割，它的解是A/B =(A+B)/A～1.618。

放在攝影的觀景窗上，就是一個井字的分割，而相交的四個點就在離觀景窗邊緣相對38%的位置。

假設短邊為B=1，那麼為了滿足黃金分割率，長邊A就等於1.618。分割點離較近的邊相對於全長的比例，就是38%。

B/(A+B)=1/2.618=0.38=38%

38%這個數字難以目測，所以一般就用1/3做為概估，把攝影的焦點放在距離觀景窗邊緣三分之一的相對位置，這也叫做「三分之一理論」。

(這只是一個美學理論，可以參考，但是如果太堅持，則是很多專業攝影師都不以為然的。)

“In the Fibonacci sequence you start with two numbers, 0 and 1. Each subsequent number is the sum of the previous two, creating the sequence 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 8, 13 and so on…”

費氏數列也可以幫助構圖。而其實費氏數列和黃金分割理論相似。當費氏數列的數字愈大的時候，它前後鄰接的數字的比例，就很近黃金分割率，譬如 費氏數列的第10項和第9項的比：55/34～1.6177。已經很接近1.618的黃金分割率了。

如果以費氏數列為邊長的方形來相接，所累加形成的長方形，其兩邊長的比(也就是費氏數列兩鄰接數字的比)，最後會接近黃金分割率1.618。

以費氏數列為邊長的方型來相接：

0

1  1×1方形

1  1×1方形+1×1 方形=1×2長方形；

2 1×2長方形+2×2方形=2×3長方形；

3 2×3長方形+3×3方形=3×5長方形；

5 3×5長方形+5×5方形=5×8長方形；

8 5×8長方形+8×8方形=8×13長方形；

…..

如果把這個長方形當作是相機(觀景窗)長寬的規格比例，那麼35mm相機的3:2=1.5，還真的蠻接近黃金分割率1.618呢！

(向日葵的花序，通常左旋數和右旋數各為34和55，更大朶的則有89和144，甚至有144和233的。這些都是費氏數列中的前後項，很神奇吧！

我第一次看到Instagram 的相片是方形的，有點不太適應。但Instagram還是受到很多粉絲的歡迎。所以啊，運用黃金分割的理論來構圖，只是一個參考而已，也不用太迷信就是了。)

構圖當然有其他的理論和講究，譬如：對稱、平衡、透視點、三角構圖法、彰顯前景的重點、聚焦至主題、極簡構圖法、重視光影的印象主義、抽象等等，不一而足。大家有空自行參考就是了。

“Trying to develop a personal style…The factors that shape our style are the various choices that we make as a photographer, including subject, the equipment we use, the lighting we favor and how we process our images…”

攝影的理論和實務有各種各樣，一個攝影師最終必須做各種選擇，來展現屬於自己的風格。 

所以啊，攝影也是尋求自己喜歡的表達方式。對理論與實務的了解，可以幫助我們更有能力展現自己的風格，但是畢竟要怎麼做，還是在於自己的決心。

看完”Landscape Photography”這本書，我的決心就是繼續用iPhone隨意拍、多拍，讓偶遇的風景和意外的效果，決定我的風格。

*：Mark Bauer & Ross Hoddinott, Landscape Photography, 2021, Ammonite Press

2023/7/27 Landscape Photography Damakey形